Paddy Sorrenti had a sneaking suspicion that Calgary was missing proper, freshly smoked barbecue. So the 34-year-old took the warehouse where his family catering business prepped fancy canapés and Stampede-worthy breakfasts and turned it into a welcoming oasis of meat and brewed-on-site beers. Know this: Drinking pints in a super-well-lit space right next to a graveyard is not normally my idea of good times. But Paddy’s transforms it into an excellent experience. The staff effortlessly deliver the kind of genuine, family-run hospitality that can’t be manufactured, and they direct me to a plate of smoky and supremely tender brisket tacos, which I dutifully wash down with a flight of four new beers. The Mosaic saison is amazing – spicy and fruity without attacking your taste buds, and an ideal companion to salty meats. I walk out full and a little buzzed, having dropped just $20 on food and drinks, which is a pretty perfect formula for happy days.